TRIBECA 2020 - Ottolenghi and the Cakes of Versailles

TRIBECA 2020

Ottolenghi and the Cakes of Versailles from documentary filmmaker, Laura Gabbert is a short yet sweet reminder that art does not have to be limited to a single mode of expression. 

Gabbert’s feature follows renowned chef, Yotam Ottolenghi as he collaborates not only with the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, but also with a team of chefs from across the globe. All of which come from different backgrounds with their own distinct style that they implement into their food. The documentary details Ottolenghi’s task of bringing the garden of Versailles in Paris to life. This is all within the confined walls of the Metropolitan Museum through an exhibition where food and art become one. The film presents the rich yet troubled history of Versailles and manages to contextualise its past within contemporary society. Connections are quickly made, particularly surrounding the sheer excess of the 17th century banquets in Versailles. Onlookers from the lower classes would gawk at the mere presence of the French Royal Family, and this is what the documentary connects to our current day obsessions with social media. 

With the likes of Instagram becoming a window into the homes of others, anyone can be stunned at a beautiful yet distant reality from their own lives. Ottolenghi himself touches upon this exclusivity, his own profession and the dangers it can present. The camera beautifully lingers upon the stunning work created by the chefs, while not neglecting the fact that this entire concept is one that only a small handful of people will get to partake in. Others will remain onlookers. This is thanks to some impressive cinematography from Judy Phu. Phu always understands at what point to pull back from the mouth-watering images of these handcrafted treats to avoid the very excess the film critiques.

Nevertheless, these connections are merely just one of the films focal points. Director Laura Gabbert is not hesitant to let the film explore the personal journey that these chefs undergo. By allowing moments for Ottolenghi, as well as others, to detail their history with their craft, a deeper connection ismade with the process that may seem very alien to many. There is no doubt that these individuals are artists. This is perhaps made much clearer as the very food they create is displayed in the same space as paintings and sculptures. 

However, like many artists, there is an evident struggle shown of bringing their visions to life. The film attempts to capture all of this within its incredibly short runtime of 75 minutes, forcing most of the film’s most interesting beats to become overloaded. It verges on being disjointed as a result. The often muddled nature of the piece can quickly begin to lose focus, The film shifts from the chefs themselves to a more educational narrative, following Ottolenghi as he walks the very garden he seeks to recreate. 

Despite a lack of focus, Ottolenghi and the Cakes of Versailles is a fascinating glimpse into the creative passion that can come from all walks of life, while expressing why history can often repeat itself without one even realising.